It's a UN Heritage site, and totally overrun by tourists and tourism. But I think it still retains a lot of its charm. Yes, there are about 15,000 shops selling lanterns (at about $2) or making shoes or clothing to order (avoid the cheapest ones - you get what you pay for). But those lantern shops are really pretty at night. The town somehow still has something magical.
And great food - probably the best we've found in Vietnam so far. Avoid the waterfront though. We really liked 'Morning Glory'.
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